Y3W30 - The Erzgebirge
The days leading up to the holiday break were fast and furious for us this year as it is for most I suppose. We welcomed my brother Ryan and his family. In our planning discussions, we decided to go to Eastern Germany where Ryan had served his mission 13 years ago. The Erzgebirge region of Germany is home to famous Christmas products and traditions. Anyone who has a German made Nutcracker or Smoker as a part of their holiday decorations will find it was made in the Erzgebirge.
The sister cities of Annaberg and Buchholz combine along the Silberstrasse (Silver road) to create a charming village in the Erzgebirge mountains. We first visited the Buchholz side of town and the Frohnauer Hammer museum. This is an interesting piece of Erzgebirge history. Most of the early industry in this region was mining and blacksmithing. The Frohnauer hammer is a river powered hammer giant in size and more impressive in the force of it’s stroke. The mill and hammer was first developed in the late 15th century and tours of the mill include a working demonstration.
Sächsische Schweiz
‘Saxony Switzerland’ is a mountainous region southeast of Dresden near the Czech border. With sunny skies and slightly warmer temperatures, we geared ourselves up to spend some time outside and view some natural wonders of Eastern Germany. The morning was filled with a welcomed train ride to the Sächsische Schweiz area, a ferry ride across the Elbe river, and a fantastic hike up to the top of the Bastei. As usual, this was a highlight for the girls.
While our travels were hampered by heavy snow and bitter temperatures, the conditions provided an exquisite winter wonderland for us to explore during a 4+ day visit.
Weimar
Weimar
This small city located in the German State of Thuringia is former home literary greats Goethe and Schiller. The School of Music named after conductor Franz Liszt still operates in Weimar. It is also the namesake for the Weimar Republic. This government established after World War I was effectively annexed to obscurity by Hitler’s Nazi party in the early 1930’s. For us, Weimar was a brief overnight rest place and due to the freezing temperatures only included a short morning tour before we hit the road for Saxony (Erzgebirge). We did have time, however, to pick up a Thuringia Bratwurst. Records show that these sausages date back from at least 1432 (ours were not originals).
Annaberg-Buchholz
Before entering town, we stopped a few kilometers north of town to see an area known as Greifensteine. These craggy rock formations were blanketed by fresh snow which made for a brilliant view and ever adventurous driving.
Annaberg-Buchholz
Before entering town, we stopped a few kilometers north of town to see an area known as Greifensteine. These craggy rock formations were blanketed by fresh snow which made for a brilliant view and ever adventurous driving.
The sister cities of Annaberg and Buchholz combine along the Silberstrasse (Silver road) to create a charming village in the Erzgebirge mountains. We first visited the Buchholz side of town and the Frohnauer Hammer museum. This is an interesting piece of Erzgebirge history. Most of the early industry in this region was mining and blacksmithing. The Frohnauer hammer is a river powered hammer giant in size and more impressive in the force of it’s stroke. The mill and hammer was first developed in the late 15th century and tours of the mill include a working demonstration.
After the tour, which consisted primarily of trying to calm cold whimpering children, we visited a charming store filled with German Christmas items and then had a traditional meal at a local restaurant.
On Sunday, we stopped by a local church that Ryan served in during his mission. I told him that the local members only remember the strange missionaries, and sure enough, they remembered him. They indicated that it wasn’t because he was strange, just memorable.
It was a real highlight to see people embrace him and even our family. Following church, we briefly visited the local Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas Market) in Annaberg.
Seiffen
Seiffen is the home to the skilled woodworkers who have for hundreds of years handcrafted toys, Christmas ornaments/nutcrackers/smokers, and a myriad of other items. Our first stop was the Spielzeug (toy) museum. The museum chronicled the emergence aspiring woodworkers of the 19th century and included high quality exhibits and amazing historical examples. Following the museum, we sprinted for another ‘inside’ venue - a series of local Christmas stores. There, Ryan and Melissa stocked up on some Christmas presents to take home with them. With temperatures way below freezing, we quickly picked up some Christmas Market food and headed for the cars. We had a mountain drive to Dresden ahead of us and some winter storms on the way…
Seiffen is the home to the skilled woodworkers who have for hundreds of years handcrafted toys, Christmas ornaments/nutcrackers/smokers, and a myriad of other items. Our first stop was the Spielzeug (toy) museum. The museum chronicled the emergence aspiring woodworkers of the 19th century and included high quality exhibits and amazing historical examples. Following the museum, we sprinted for another ‘inside’ venue - a series of local Christmas stores. There, Ryan and Melissa stocked up on some Christmas presents to take home with them. With temperatures way below freezing, we quickly picked up some Christmas Market food and headed for the cars. We had a mountain drive to Dresden ahead of us and some winter storms on the way…
Sächsische Schweiz
‘Saxony Switzerland’ is a mountainous region southeast of Dresden near the Czech border. With sunny skies and slightly warmer temperatures, we geared ourselves up to spend some time outside and view some natural wonders of Eastern Germany. The morning was filled with a welcomed train ride to the Sächsische Schweiz area, a ferry ride across the Elbe river, and a fantastic hike up to the top of the Bastei. As usual, this was a highlight for the girls.
Dresden
Once the cultural center of Germany, Dresden was fire bombed by British and American planes on February 13th 1945. The destruction was massive and Dresden has spent the last 60+ years recovering - particularly since the fall of the wall and the unification of Germany. The best example of this can be seen in the reconstruction of the Frauenkirche. The legendary church was put together using a combination of original and new stones.
Once the cultural center of Germany, Dresden was fire bombed by British and American planes on February 13th 1945. The destruction was massive and Dresden has spent the last 60+ years recovering - particularly since the fall of the wall and the unification of Germany. The best example of this can be seen in the reconstruction of the Frauenkirche. The legendary church was put together using a combination of original and new stones.
Between the Frauenkirche and the Hofkirche (the Frauenkirche's Catholic cousin) resides the Royal Palace. Along it's outer wall, the history of great Saxon rulers are honored with porcelain renderings. We stopped for a few moments to appreciate the breadth and detail of this impressive demonstration of skilled workmanship.
Of course, with Dresden as the capital of 'Christmas Land', there are sprawling markets throughout the city and we spent some free time eating and watching the kids enjoy rides and sweets.
Another favorite was the Zwinger - a combination of historical gardens/fountains (not much to see in winter), fortress, and museums. There, we saw Raphael’s famous Madonna and child with the even more popular baby angels along with other classics from Rembrandt, Vermeer, Albrecht Dürer, and Velasquez. After the Old Masters Gallery, we quickly hit the Royal Armory to gander at the knights and weapons. The kids particularly enjoyed the smaller renditions that would theoretically fit them. Then they pick out outfits for their dads. I got the stylish silver suit with red accents and Ryan got the tacky gold.
Lastly, adjacent to the Zwinger, is the State Opera house designed by Semper with a prominent statue of King Johann of Saxony on his horse. With six kids, there was no opera on our menu.
Having hit the key sights and Christmas upon us, we jumped into our motorized sleighs capable of 180 km/hr on land and headed for home hoping for the arrival of the Weihnachtsmann a couple days later.
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